“The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon” Traces a Coat’s Journey From Technical Innovation to Object of Fashion

Burberry’s trenchcoats were first displayed in London’s Victoria & Albert Museum back in 1946 at an exhibit heralding Britain’s design and manufacturing industries. Eighty years later, the trenches have returned, and this time they’re getting the spotlight all to themselves.

“The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon” opens today, Monday, September 21, timed to coincide with both Burberry’s 170th anniversary and the presentation of their spring 2027 catwalk show, which closes out London Fashion Week. Running through January 3 and free to the public, the exhibit takes up the corridor-like Prince Consort Gallery. It begins with Thomas Burberry’s rather utilitarian invention of cotton gaberdine in the 1870s. The fabric is the result of waterproofing individual cotton threads before weaving them into a tight twill. The product revolutionized outerwear, making light and breathable yet rain-resistant coats possible.

The exhibition then tracks the coat’s journey from technical innovation to cultural icon: its adoption by soldiers during World War I (leading to the name “trench” coat), the perfection of the craft, the introduction of Burberry’s instantly-recognizable check, and appearances in advertising in fashion photography. The story is told through artifacts gathered from both Burberry’s and the V&A’s archives. The cutest one may be a “Thomas” teddy bear made of House Check, wearing a golden trench.

The pinnacle of the exhibit, titled “Creativity,” explores the trenchcoat’s evolution into a thing of fashion. Nearly two dozen variations of the trench from Burberry’s runway collections are on display. The glitter and very British glamour of Christopher Bailey’s nearly two-decade-long run at the house is exemplified by metallic fuchsia and golden embossed crocodile versions. Riccardo Tisci’s evening gown iteration of the garment takes center stage at the end of the hall. Current creative director Daniel Lee’s bold and graphic take on the house is well represented. A deep purple version with frayed-end flourishes from his winter 2025 collection is a particular standout.

All together, the exhibit is a fascinating case study in how clothing can evolve from utilitarian necessity to cultural uniform to desirable object of creativity and fashion. It’s a subject matter that the V&A can keep exploring thanks to a multiyear partnership with Burberry. In autumn 2028, the museum’s fashion galleries will reopen as the The Burberry Gallery, promising a “world-class learning experience and greater access to fashion education for all.”