At Chloé Spring 2027, a Joyful Embrace of the Divine Feminine

Since taking the helm at Chloé, Chemena Kamali has said she is an instinctive designer, fueled as much by intuition as a desire to explore sides of the house that have not yet been expressed. Today’s show in Paris shot straight to the heart, with a lightness and emotive clarity that swept the room up and away. Will we ever see a show as romantic as this morning’s offering?

Titled The Obsession Collection, the lineup began with intricate white fringed sets followed by dusty rose and black fringed garments. These garments fused Western frontier symbolism with the dreamiest of folk styling. Lace doilies and cutouts, ornate necklines, floral appliqué, and mother-of-pearl detailing were all craft. Flowing lace and tulle dresses with gorgeous tiered sleeves and deep necklines had a transportive, magical appeal. A series of trenches and massive tiered transparent raincoats in white, black, and the palest of pink were clear statement pieces. The raincaps, with one side falling down the shoulder, also stood out. A single silver-and-gold-plated flower micro-bra was half-flower child, half-goddess reborn.

The final looks blended bohemian femininity with perfectly tailored ’70s flared trousers and blazers. Under each tailored garment was a delicate, lace lingerie bodysuit. These same lingerie garments formed the base of the last looks: dresses that were barely there negligé from the waist up, and voluminous tiered clouds from the waist down. There’s a regal quality to Kamali’s work. It has the free-spirited, lovely eccentricity we know and love at Chloé, but there is also a joyful embrace of the utterly feminine.