FASHION

At the Impossible Couture Collection Show, Fashion History Walks Again

Ahead of a rare-fashion auction, archival looks from John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Azzedine Alaïa came to life for a special salon-style presentation.

by Jessica Minkoff

Mondrian dress
Yves Saint Laurent's famous Mondrian dress from fall 1965-1966 couture is among the pieces in The Impossible Couture Collection. Photo by W Magazine

If anyone was looking for clues as to what Zendaya might wear on the Dune: Part Three press tour come November, there was a good chance one of the looks was on view at the Impossible Couture Collection show—an intimate, salon-inspired presentation of 13 pieces from a 23-lot collection of fashion grails curated by Peter Brant Jr. (son of supermodel Stephanie Seymour and businessman and publisher Peter Brant) and Loïc Gouzer of Fair Warning auction house.

Image architect, stylist, and longtime vintage collector Law Roach was seated next to Brant Jr., who sourced the archival pieces with couture collectors—and 2027 Met Gala attendees—in mind. Clients’ interest in seeing the clothes in motion compelled Brant Jr. to stage the September 11 show at his Gilded Age carriage house on the Upper East Side, where guests including Giovanna Engelbert and Princess Maria-Olympia of Greece took in looks by John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Azzedine Alaïa, Martin Margiela, and more. W’s own style director Allia Alliata di Montereale, styled the show.

Highlights included an Alaïa hooded dress from fall 1986–87; a Christian Dior by John Galliano Egyptian scarab necklace from spring 2004 haute couture, originally shown on Hana Soukupova; and a custom version of the opening look from McQueen’s spring 2010 “Plato’s Atlantis” collection, later worn by Naomi Campbell—Brant Jr.’s godmother—at the 2010 Fashion for Relief fundraiser. Campbell also contributed the matching Armadillo shoes from her personal archive, though the famously towering, fragile footwear remained on display rather than walking the runway. Also staying off the catwalk was the iconic Mondrian dress from Yves Saint Laurent’s fall 1965–66 couture collection.

Naomi Campbell’s custom version of Look 1 from Alexander McQueen’s “Plato’s Atlantis Collection” is part of the auction.

Stephen Lovekin/FFR/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images
Courtesy

The Impossible Couture Collection will be on view and open to the public by appointment from September 12 through 16, ahead of the September 17 invite-only auction on the Fair Warning platform. As for which piece Roach might have his eye on for Zendaya’s next red carpet? Our bet is the sculpted John Galliano ensemble worn by Anneliese Seubert from his fall 1995–96 “Dolores del Rio” collection. You heard it here first.

A John Galliano Anneliese Seuberg sculpted ensemble from the fall 1995-96 “Dolores del Rio” collection