FASHION

For Isabel Marant Spring 2027, Kim Bekker Goes All-In on California Cool

Los Angeles and Sam Haskins’s photographs from the ’60s served as the starting point for a collection of breezy layers, faded florals, and clothes designed to reveal a little skin.

by Jessica Minkoff

PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 1: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fas...
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It was this time last year when Isabel Marant officially passed the torch to her longtime collaborator and right-hand, Kim Bekker—who has since assumed the title of creative director. With two ready-to-wear seasons under her belt, Bekker looked to Los Angeles for spring 2027 and found inspiration that could be seen and felt from the moment guests, including Iris Law, Natasha Lyonne, and Lou Doillon, stepped onto the West Coast-ified set at Place Colette complete with a floor full of sand.

“The starting point was in Los Angeles, where I came across photographs by Sam Haskins from the sixties,” Bekker said ahead of the show. “I loved the aesthetic of hazy light from the photographs and the way the women looked so strong and sensual within it. That contrast became important for the collection.” The vibe was evident from the first look that hit the runway—white, light and airy, board shorts paired with a crochet top and sun-kissed hair dyed with pink streaks. The same shorts in black appeared in another look, styled with a crop top ideal for showing off a summer tan (and glistening abs).

Embroidered mini dresses in antique-looking linen were thrown over swimsuits and accessorized with embellished moccasins and statement earrings, in the effortless cool way that has become synonymous with the Isabel Marant brand. The women who best embody that vibe—Emmanuelle Alt types who attend back-to-back runway shows in denim and black jackets—inspired Bekker last season, and elements of their sensibility carried over to tonight’s spring range. “That attitude is still there,” she says. “The freedom and confidence in how she puts her clothes together. For summer, it becomes lighter and more relaxed.”

In the Isabel Marant universe, that means loose shirts layered with leather halter tops or chiffon vests and sculpted jackets worn over maillots. It also means embracing color and pattern, the latter of which Bekker pulled from the archives. “Spring-Summer 2013 was one of the references for the faded prints,” she says. “We developed them on light, floating fabrics. I wanted to capture that feeling of summer sunlight, with colors that look almost faded by the sun.” The highlight was a pair of low-slung jeans that looked just as good with a bikini top as they did tonight with a sheer tank top and a cropped jacket.

Bekker also offered options for after-hours when showing off a post-beach day glow is priority. The strongest one was worn by ultimate cool-girl Mona Tougaard, who closed the show in a fluid sequin mini dress over black capris with crochet hems and topped off with a slouchy black jacket. That look will resonate with all kinds of women. “For the future, I want to keep developing that balance between a strong creative identity and clothes women really want to wear,” says Bekker. “There is such a rich language here, the ease, the attitude, the craftsmanship, and I want to keep exploring it in a fresh way.” Mission accomplished.

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