Loewe co–creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez put the “show” in fashion show for spring 2027, commissioning Casper Mueller Kneer Architects to build a ghostly theater-in-the-round inside the temporary white box that rises each season in the Château de Vincennes courtyard. The two-tiered circular structure was made from white scaffolding veiled in sheer fabric, with architectural references ranging from Shakespeare’s Globe to La Scala. But that was where the theatricality ended. After two seasons defined by madcap layering, inflatable outerwear, and general visual overload, what they offered today was a more distilled expression of the twisted American sportswear with which they made their names at Proenza Schouler—now filtered through Loewe’s exacting craft.
“How does this new Loewe language become a wardrobe?” the designers asked in their show notes. Their answer was to bring it closer to real life and closer to themselves. “There’s proximity to the clothes, proximity to living, and proximity to our own sensibility—even our autobiography,” McCollough and Hernandez wrote. That autobiography includes a distinctly New England strain of prep: McCollough spent formative years at Walnut Hill outside of Boston, while the pair have long had a home in the Berkshires. McCollough and Hernandez seem to have done a deep dive into the archetypes catalogued in The Official Preppy Handbook, then fucked them up a little. Polos were cut backwards, trenchcoats sprouted sunglass-resin collars, boat shoes came with bright laces, and backwards baseball caps gave both male and female models a JFK Jr. insouciance.
The designers set Loewe’s virtuosic Spanish artisans to work reinventing other New England staples in leather, including striped jackets and shirt dresses in summer-weight skived leather that wouldn’t look out of place on a Cape Cod veranda. Other feats of leatherwork included molded plongé nappa on abbreviated trapèze dresses and McCollough and Hernandez’s first take on the house’s classic Puzzle bag, a featherlight East-West version dubbed the Puzzle Charm. Elsewhere, craft took softer forms: Bead-fringed slip dresses riffed on elongated basketball jerseys, while the finale brought jade-green shorts and a tangerine shift covered in intricate three-dimensional floral embroidery. For longtime followers, those exuberant blooms felt like a deep cut, recalling the zesty Hawaiian floral prints of the duo’s spring 2012 Proenza Schouler collection.
