Louis Vuitton Spring 2027 Comes Back Down to Earth
Nicolas Ghesquière set his latest collection beneath flying cars, but the clothes themselves were light, fluid, and firmly designed for real life.
Last night, Nicolas Ghesquière transformed the Louvre courtyard into a carpark, straight out of a 1950s future. Floating automobiles—“concept cars,” as Louis Vuitton referred to them in the show notes—lit the runway while models walked roads wearing technical anoraks; slip dresses; and slim, tapered trousers. Ghesquière said these garments are made to fit the body in movement, and that they’re minimalist at their core. This is something new for the house, or at least a departure in conceptual maximalism that Louis Vuitton has been showing for some time. Are these future pieces? They could be. They’re also very relevant right now.
“I wanted to express a sensation of simplicity—a quest for purity,” Ghesquière told reporters at a preview of his latest collection. “The idea of lightness, of fluidity, is very important.” Initial looks blended sportswear staples with mod ’60s pieces. A collarless gray coat with white trim; a half-transparent dress constructed from sheer panels; and a shimmering sleeveless pink dress suggested wearable, if slightly otherworldly, garments. Ruffles were a theme, popping up from the lining of a perforated leather jacket and as subtle frills on flowing ultra-light knee-length cardigans and skirts. Mona Tougaard walked in a very ’90s slip dress.
As the collection progressed, looks became more elaborate. An iridescent pale-pink dress with shining triangles imprinted blended the late ’90s everyday with ’60s futurism. A beautiful gray frock came with an ornate black embroidered second layer that could be unzipped to the waist. Flowing tailoring finished the offering. Ghesquière sent a clear message: Minimalism does not need to mean clean, and it certainly doesn’t need to be simple.
