Paris Fashion Week packed a lot into nine days. From September 28 through October 6, the official spring 2027 calendar included 68 runway shows and 34 presentations—102 appointments before you even counted the parties and dinners including W and Bloomingdale’s opening-night dinner at Le Duc. On October 2 alone, editors went from the Élysée Palace, where President Emmanuel Macron presented Louis Vuitton artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière with the insignia of Chevalier of the Legion of Honor, to Christian Louboutin’s over-the-top Eternal Youth burlesque-slash-opera at the Théâtre du Châtelet starring Dita Von Teese. Change was in the air, too: Anthony Vaccarello’s gold-drenched Saint Laurent show was widely read as a possible farewell, while Chemena Kamali’s Chloé collection arrived amid rumors that she could be headed to Saint Laurent. Amid all the industry chatter, these are just a handful of things we saw, loved, and kept thinking about.
The Beads Go On
Clockwise from top left: Beaded necklaces at The Row, Loewe, Celine, and Loewe.
There was plenty of big, bold jewelry on the runways, but it was the charmingly low-tech beaded pieces that captured our attention. At Celine, Michael Rider layered long strands over his eclectic wardrobe. The Row pushed even further into modern bohemia, tucking colorful, layered necklaces beneath shirts and sheer tops. And at Loewe, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez extended the same handcrafted spirit throughout the collection, where glass beads and intricate embellishment enhanced their inventive take on American sportswear.
Wait, Is That....?
From left: Olivia Colman at Miu Miu, Rachel Ojuromi at Chanel, and Ciara at Junya Watanabe.
We always look forward to the Miu Miu show for its unpredictable casting, and spring 2027 delivered. Oscar winner Olivia Colman, 52, made her runway debut alongside Jamie Bell, Igby Rigney, Louisa Jacobson, and Katherine Waterston, turning the catwalk into something closer to an ensemble cast. The next day, 22-year-old Nigerian model Rachel Ojuromi, a social media sensation for making Lagos her runway, joined Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel lineup just months after going viral for her re-creations of the his Métiers d’Art collection. But perhaps the biggest surprise of the week came at Junya Watanabe, where the designer’s longtime fan Ciara—pregnant with her fifth child—walked the runway three times, including once beneath a chandelier-like crystal headpiece.
Thoughtful Seating Arrangements
The chairs at Courreges (top) and Dior.
Whether or not designers were nodding to fashion’s endless rounds of creative-director musical chairs, we don’t know, but there was a lot of thought that went into this year’s furniture. At Courrèges, Drew Henry’s debut unfolded around 450 mismatched chairs sourced from different eras—school chairs, wooden seats, designer armchairs—assembled by set designer Arnaud Selve at the Palais de Tokyo.
Meanwhile, Dior’s Jonathan Anderson went in the opposite direction seating guests including Rihanna and Jennifer Lawrence on ornate wooden chairs modeled after one from his own collection that reappeared the next day for the house’s re-see presentation as seen above.
Objets to Carry
Clockwise from top left: Dior’s walnut and swan bags, Saint Laurent’s can bag, and Bulgari’s minaudières.
Some of the season’s standout bags felt less like accessories and more like objets d’art. At Dior, Jonathan Anderson offered a white acrylic swan minaudière with silver wings and a walnut clutch inspired by the wénwán nuts sent with the show invitation. Bulgari’s sculptural, egg-shaped minaudières, finished with jewel-toned tassels, blurred the line between handbag and jewelry. And at Saint Laurent, a cheeky little can-shaped bag for anyone with a Diet Coke habit they just can’t quit.
The New Party Pants
From left: Dior, Julie Kegels, and Louis Vuitton.
Wedding season dressing will get an upgrade next year. At Dior, Jonathan Anderson paired metallic disco-charged trousers with his latest takes on the Bar jacket. Nicolas Ghesquière took a softer route at Louis Vuitton, pairing floating silk pants with streamlined tailoring for an elegant alternative to black-tie dress. And Julie Kegels has you covered for the afters with sheer organza pants and dresses filled with glitter, confetti, and sequins that pool and shift with every dance move.
August Barron’s Disco Party
August Barron turned its spring 2027 show at La Cigale into more of a club night than a traditional runway. The crowd cheered and whistled as models including Summer Dirx strutted to a synth-heavy Smerz soundtrack in sky-high heels shaped like Tiaras, glittering dresses, Playboy bunny ears, and deliberately undone glamour.
Hit Me Hard and Soft
Looks from Miu Miu (left) and Hodakova.
At Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada turned soft dresses and sportswear into something more sculptural with fabrics that were deliberately starched, stiffened, and crumpled. Ellen Hodakova Larsson pushed the idea further at Hodakova, using wax sourced from a Stockholm beekeeper to transform deadstock viscose into an almost papery material, while sturdier waxed cloth gave familiar silhouettes a crisp, nearly fragile structure.
Chloé’s Rain Check
At Chloé, Chemena Kamali gave everyone a reason to actually get excited about a rainy day, sending a string of slick fisherman coats in cherry red, bright yellow, and translucent pink down the runway. Matching asymmetrical floppy hats draped down the models’ backs, providing full waterproof hair protection for anyone with long locks—like Kamali herself.
A Sweet Celine Treat
A new party-hosting trick has been unlocked, courtesy of Celine, where cappuccino-flavored popsicles were served to guests over bowls of ice before Michael Rider’s spring 2027 show.
