PFW

Thom Browne Resurrected the Hoop Skirt at Paris Fashion Week

by Steph Eckardt and Serichai Traipoom

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SERICHAI TRAIPOOM

The soundtracks of Paris Fashion Week have been full of surprises this season. But if Lindsay Lohan’s “Rumors” was unexpected at Balmain’s show on Friday, it was nothing compared to Thom Browne‘s choice on Sunday: the Teletubbies theme song, which blared through the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts as a Marie Antoinette-esque model daintily pushed a pram. As promised, Browne’s spring/summer 2020 show was nothing like the study in uniformity that marked his return to New York Fashion Week earlier this month. Instead, it was business as usual—which is to say full-blown, fantastical theatrics. Between towering, veiled piles of hair and exposed hoop skirts—some painted with Browne’s signature red, white, and black stripes—the silhouettes were anything but subtle. The same goes for pretty much everything else that made it onto the runway, from the dolphins and seahorses that joined Browne’s signature Hector dachshund bags to the straw hats that topped off wands rather than heads. Head backstage for a closer look, here.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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Backstage at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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On the runway at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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On the runway at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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On the runway at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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On the runway at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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On the runway at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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On the runway at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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On the runway at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.

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On the runway at the Thom Browne SS20 show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, September 29th, 2019. Photograph by Serichai Traipoom for W Magazine.